UV Nail Lamps Safe or Unsafe? Truth unfolded! (reposting for Doug Schoon )

Do UV Nail Lamps Emit Unsafe Levels of Ultraviolet Light?
Three Experts Rebut Claims that UV Nail Lamps are Unsafe for Skin
Doug Schoon, M.S. Chemistry, Chief Scientific Advisor, CND; Paul Bryson, Ph.D. Chemistry, Director of R&D, OPI Products; Jim McConnell, BA Chemistry, President, McConnell Labs

Introduction

A recent report incorrectly claimed that UV nail lamps are a source of "high-dose UV-A" and also inaccurately compared UV tanning beds with UV nail lamps. The report, "Occurrence of Nonmelanoma Skin Cancers on the Hands After UV Nail Light Exposure" (MacFarlane and Alonso) 1 , overestimated the exposure of client skin to UV light emitted from UV nail lamps and improperly characterized the effect of these lamps on the hand.
As three of the leading scientists in the professional nail industry, we were surprised by these claims. To verify the facts, using an independent laboratory we tested the leading UV nail lamps to determine how much UV-A and UV-B they emit and then compared that to natural sunlight.

Testing

In preparation for our study, we tested many UV nail lamps to determine which had the highest UV output and, as expected, found the nail lamp with the highest output was one designed to utilize four 9-watt UV bulbs. We also decided to test a popular UV nail lamp designed to utilize two 9-watt UV bulbs. The purpose for testing both lamps was to determine how exposures vary across the range of UV nail lamps with the goal of providing information that would apply to the majority of salons and situations. The selected two bulb UV nail lamp was chosen and tested because it is a popular brand and representative of other UV nail lamps within the two 9-watt UV bulb category. The selected four 9-watt UV bulb nail lamp was chosen because it had the highest measured UV output of any UV nail lamp tested. No attempt was made to test UV nail lamps utilizing only one UV bulb, since the overwhelming majority of UV nail lamps use two, three or four UV bulbs. The UV nail lamps selected for testing are likely representative of more than 90% of the UV nail lamps used in salons.

Lighting Science, Inc., of Phoenix, AZ., is a fully equipped, completely independent scientific testing laboratory that specializes in the development and testing of many types of illumination devices, including those that emit UV light and Lighting Science is not in the business of manufacturing or selling UV nail lamps. The two selected UV nail lamps were submitted to Lighting Science in brand-new condition. Highly sensitive UV detectors were placed where client hands would normally reside while inside a UV nail lamp. These detectors accurately measured the amount of UV-A and UV-B light emitted from each UV nail lamp. To ensure a proper comparison, Lighting Science also used the same test equipment to measure the UV-A and UV-B light found in natural sunlight. A discussion of these measurements and results is presented below.

Discussion

The MacFarlane and Alonso report made several errors and misstatements concerning artificial nails products and how they are applied. The most notable involves the improper estimation of UV exposure to the skin by UV nail lamps, resulting in a faulty report conclusion. It is incorrect to conclude that putting a hand into a tanning bed with twelve 100-watt UV bulbs is the same as putting that hand into a UV nail lamp with four 9-watt bulbs because: 1) tanning bed users typically use these devices more often and for much longer periods than seen with nail salon services, 2) the authors mistakenly assumed that UV bulb "wattage" is a measure of UV exposure to the skin, when wattage is actually a measure of energy usage, 3) the authors erred significantly by relying solely on UV bulb wattage to estimate the actual amount of UV exposure to skin, and 4) they neglected to consider that UV light reflects many times inside the tanning bed and these internal reflections further increase UV exposure to skin, again demonstrating that MacFarlane and Alonso approach to estimating UV exposure to skin is not valid. Their comparisons to UV tanning beds simply doesn't make sense logically or scientifically.

The UV testing performed by Lighting Science used proper scientific techniques and equipment to measure both UV-A and UV-B radiation in terms of milliwatts per centimeter squared (mW/cm2), which is a measure of how much UV light falls upon each and every square centimeter of skin (about 1/8 square inch). It is important to understand that UV-B is considered by many to be more potentially damaging to skin than UV-A, which is why nail lamps rely on special UV bulbs that contain internal coatings designed to filter out most of the UV-B light.

It is important to note that clients visit a salon for UV gel nail application or maintenance twice each month and that each of their hands are placed into the UV lamp for intervals of two minute or less, for a total of 6-10 minutes. In this report, we will always assume the highest level of exposure: 10 minutes per hand, twice per month.

Results

Testing by Lighting Sciences produced the following information:
1. UV-B output for both UV nail lamps was less than what was found in natural sunlight.
The bulbs used in UV nail lamps contain special internal filters which remove almost all UV-B, so this result is not surprising. The test results show that the amount of UV-B to which client skin is exposed is equal to what they could expect from spending an extra 17 to 26 seconds in sunlight each day of the two weeks between nail salon appointments.

2. UV-A exposure is much lower than suggested by MacFarlane and Alonso.
Test results show that UV-A exposure for client skin is equivalent to spending an extra 1.5 to 2.7 minutes in sunlight each day between salon visits, depending on the type of UV nail lamp used. A nail lamp with two UV bulbs corresponds to 1.5 minutes and a nail lamp with four UV bulbs corresponds to about 2.7 minutes each day between salon visits.

MacFarlane and Alonso claimed to find two cases of skin cancer that they suggest were caused by UV nail lamps. Both of their patients live in Texas, a climate where significant incidental UV exposure from sunlight is inevitable even in the absence of deliberate recreational exposure. One patient had been exposed to a UV nail lamp only eight times during the same year (we assume every two weeks for 4 months). During this same period, the patient would have been exposed to more UV-A and UV-B simply by spending 10 to 20 minutes eating her lunch outdoors in natural sunlight once per week.

Oddly, the authors described this patient as a 48-year-old white woman who claimed to have "moderate recreational UV exposure". We fail to understand how, under the circumstances, it could be concluded that this case of nonmelanoma skin cancer is caused by these eight exposures to a UV nail lamp, especially in light of the low levels of UV exposure expected during these few visits to a salon. We respectfully disagree and believe the results of Light Science’s independent testing are in agreement with our own laboratory findings supporting the safety of UV nail lamps.

Conclusion

• McFarlane and Alonso's report has a faulty conclusion because it is based on incorrect assumptions.
• Our testing shows that UV nail lamps emit relatively low levels of UV light and these exposure levels are considered well within safe levels when they are used to perform UV artificial nail services in nail salons.

Unfortunately, inaccurate information can have a long-term damaging effect, even when later disproved. Already, some are unfairly distorting the risks of cancer on Internet blogs, YouTube and other media outlets, even to the extent of offering the exceptionally unwise advice of forgoing the UV curing of products that will not cure otherwise. We believe a fair examination of the facts supports the conclusion that UV nail lamps are safe when used as directed and brief client exposures are as safe as brief exposures to natural sunlight. Client hands are likely to be exposed to more UV light while driving their cars than they will receive from UV gel nail services.

Nail UV lamps are safe when used as directed. Nevertheless, we recognize the Nail Technician's need to address client concerns. For those clients who express anxiety, a Nail Technician can consider doing the following to make the service more reassuring:

• Place a small piece of white cloth over the hands when placing them in the UV nail lamp.
• If a client insists on wearing sunscreen, they should still be asked to wash their hands before any salon service begins. In this case, the Nail Technician should take special care to ensure nail plates are properly cleansed and dehydrated in order to prevent service breakdown (e.g. product lifting, discoloration or mottling) from the film sunscreen products can leave behind. Also, it is crucial to keep sunscreen lotions and sprays away from implements and supplies used during the nail service to avoid contamination.

Reference:
1. Occurrence of Nonmelanoma Skin Cancers on the Hands After UV Nail Light Exposure, MacFarlane, D.F., Alonso, C.A., Arch Dermatol. 2009;145(4):447-449
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Author's Biographies:
Doug Schoon, M.S. Chemistry, UC Irvine, is an internationally known scientist and lecturer with 20 years experience as a scientific researcher in the professional nail industry and has many years experience developing UV cure nail products. Schoon is author of Nail Structure and Product Chemistry, 1st & 2nd editions, many dozens of trade magazine articles and chapters in the textbook Milady's Standard Nail Technology, as well as chapters on cosmetics in a variety of different reference books for Dermatologists.

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Paul Bryson, Ph.D. Chemistry, U.S.C., Director of Research and Development of OPI Products Inc. for the past 12 years. His experience includes formulating both UV cured and 2-component acrylic systems for nail cosmetics, dental restorations, and electronic-part fabrication. He is a regular contributor to trade magazines, has written a chapter on nail cosmetics for a medical dermatology text, and has advised the California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology on improving salon safety regulations.
Jim McConnell, B.A. Chemistry, University of Oregon, President of McConnell Labs, manufacturers of Light Elegance Nail Products. A formulating chemist of UV cured systems for 12 years in the beauty industry. Jim is a contributing author for Milady’s Standard Nail Technology as well as articles in many manicuring trade magazines.

Media Inquiries: Doug Schoon, DSchoon@SchoonScientific.com

Charge what you think you're worth!

Few days I've been  getting texts from a prospective client.  Whom I've known for years.  Lovely lady though.    So she asked me my prices.  I stated  them and it went quiet for oh about a few days til  just today I recieved a text.  She wanted acrylic enhancements so I said wonderful that will be 30 dollars.    She was a tad bit stumped I supposed and she  said.  "Thought it was 15"   I simply stated  "No manicure is 15"     So a few minutes passed and she said she'll wait cause she didn't have the money. And I kindly said  "Well I will bring home my supplies and I will have it on hand when you're ready so you won't have to wait".  Mind you this is also someone I've known for a few years. Finally  her comment was:

"Well don't worry about it cuz I can go somewhere else and get them done for 25$"  

I stared blankly at the text on my touch screen phone.   Angry.  Livid.  Hurt and rather morbidly confused.  I wanted to quickly say "It's   25" but I didn't.  Instead.  Out of spite I suppose.   I then said:

Thats fine which ever makes you happy.  Have a nice day. 

  

I was rather hurt when I just stared at the text.  So I texted message my most wonderful friend I've had the honor and blessing to know.   Fast becoming someone I greatly depend on.  And Makes me feel dependable too.  That's another blog though.  So I texted her and I asked "Am I wrong for being upset over this?"   She saw my messages and her words were ( Quite wise indeed ):

"Well she is right and actually can go several places right now and get them done for  22 dollars.  You charge what you think you are worth though.  Just like hair you want business.  But I am also good enough if I want to charge 80 to 100  for a color service I am worth it.  "

I have never had words so wisely given that actually made complete sense.   It did.  But it also reaffirmed my faith in my abilities.   It's ok to charge what you think you are worth.  But always remember  Clients will get huffy  and they will  try to talk down your prices.  But remember your worth! .   You ARE a stylist or nail technician of great worth!  Don't be afraid to set your prices above others.  Though  you may want to  charge the competitive prices to get business.   I on the other hand chose to charge my prices based on my skills.  Doing nails is my dream my passion.    And  I am worth every penny I charge.

My reasoning for charging 30 instead of the norm  22 dollars is.  You're paying for quality service.  You're paying for name brand products.  You're paying for  service  from a nail technician who takes pride in her job.  And in keeping you beautiful and healthy.   Your health is important to me becaue I want you to keep coming back.   I go  through the extra steps to insure that my implements are clean and sanitized.  I make sure my nail brushes are  dust free and  clean with no residue.   I make sure my products  are  fresh and not stale.  Yes acrylic liquids , Powders,  Gel  and Polish can  go bad.   Just be glad you never had the  honor of opening a beautiful  gorgeous oh my god color and  the  fumes just knock you  over.  Literally.   Again that's another blog *laughs*    Point is.   You never know just what products you're using when you go to those .. dime a dozen nail salons that are NOT american owned.  ( Sorry  if it insults some but this is the best way I can say it without sounding like a racist)   that have people who train to work there but they just do it for work not for joy or passion.  Just work.  There's no passion in the skills.  It's all methological.   But also you want to watch out for the type of Products they use.    Most not all.  Will use products that have MMA in it.   Which is by law illegal in just about ALL states.   But definantly by far illegal in Missouri.   Though powder has Meta-Methyl Acrylate  you want to make sure it is NOT in the liquid.   I'll explain how you can find out what it is.  It's always best to be educated.  And that's part of my job.  To educate my clients.  To keep you safe. 

So when you get your nails done.  Ask your nail technician this.   

1. What products are we using today?
2. Can I see the MRSP  list for the products we use. 
3. Where did you go to get licensed to be a nail technician?
4. Do you have a license to practice as a nail technician? or Manicurist?

There's alot of questions you can ask.  But these are ones I always make sure my clients know of me.  Where I studied do I continue my studies.  What products I use.  And yes you really do need to know what's in these products.  

Another thing.  When you get your nails done at another nail salon cause you didn't like the last one.   You need to be aware of what kind of products they used on your nails.  OPI , Tammy Taylor, CND , Young Nails, NSI , Light Elegance, Oydessy Nail systems, BackScratchers, StylEnvy Nails, Sheba Nails, StarNails and so forth.   There's many  great products out there.  But the key thing is this.   You cannot .. CAN  NOT mix any of these products on top of or with one another.  I mean some might be exactly the same chemical but it can create a caustic reaction.   Toxic even.   So  I cannot stress it enough.  When you get your nails done.  MAKE sure you know what products you are wearing.    If you use one product.  Then added another product from a different  maker.   You  may end up with a set of gummy acrylics under the new  beautiful  set you have done.   And because that  set under it has disolved or perhaps  changed  it's chemical componants to something else.  You are highly  risking yourself  for nail fungus.   Chemical burns.  You name it.  

Now this is why I keep my products  top of the line and fresh.  To keep you safe.   If you come to me with  nails on that you  have no idea  who it's from.  I will simply just remove the enhancements by soaking them off  and starting fresh.   Again all this really should be another blog but I just had to get this out.   *smiles* 


So I feel better because I truely feel justified and confident in my abilities.  I am worth it. 
And so are you!

My good bye to 8 years...

Sometimes I never can fathom why things are the way they are. So many good things have been happening. But it's like I got the love of my life back. My soul mate. I get the best most wonderous job ever. The most wonderful boss and co workers. They're my family. I get to achieve my dreams finally. I have it made totally. Even though I don't make money much but it's the fact I am doing what I love so much. And all this. I lose the one person I love more than anything. Everyone else is proving to me what true friendship is all about. So those of you who stood by me. Thank you. I love all of you. Sorry I'm talking in riddles. It happens when I'm suffering a heartache. Let's just say .. I decided after 8 years to end something I struggled to keep together. This time there's no going back. I'm tired and emotionally exhausted. I hope that one day that person will know that no matter what I love her. Always. But what has been going on for months is killing me. Litereally. I'm not happy. I have to protect Ami. I have to make Ami happy before I can make anyone else happy. God comes first. I come next. Now .. a nap ... some chocolates and we'll see what tomrrow brings. Praise god for giving me clarity and the strenth to get through this ( please help me stay sane ... ) . I'm thankful for the good memories. And why am I posting my heart out for the world to see? Cause there's other's who need this insight. I hope you all don't have to go through something like this to relize that you're important. Always. Don't let anyone destroy you or take you down. Stand tall head up. And know that no matter what god will always be there to get you out of it. When temptation or problems come your way. God will find a way out for you. You can be sure of it. Bless ya'll